Sunday, November 19, 2006
The Great Wall
As you know before I left the Great Wall was one of my main objectives in regards to travel. Before leaving I booked the first two nights in a hostel next to Tiananmen Square. We arrived in Beijing around eleven the first night and simply took a taxi around an hour to the hotel and socialized with a group of Europeans who were staying in the same hostel. The hostel housed 6 people per room and was fairly clean which is as much as can be asked. As expected, Beijing was much colder than Hong Kong at about 8 degrees C.
The first day we spent wondering around Beijing taking in the city and looking like American tourists--first to Tiananmen Square. I had checked out Tiananmen Square in the Lonely Planet available at our hotel but all the passages about the history surrounding Tiananmen had been purposefully covered up by stickers. Around Tiananmen there stands: Mao's Mausoleum, The Forbidden City and the Chinese National Museum. Tiananmen Square is the world's largest city center and was as impressive as it was well guarded. There are soldiers crawling all over Beijing. That night we began to talk of other places we would like to go in China and so we decided we would see something else in addition to Beijing.
After getting a feel for the city in the first day we decided to go ahead and get down the business. The bus ride out to the great wall commenced around 6:30 am Beijing time (China only has one time zone). The ride out to the wall was fairly uneventful although we were fortunate enough to observe a local during the excretion of bodily wastes on the side of the road. Beijing is a fairly polluted city in comparison with Hong Kong but around the wall the detectable pollution was much reduced.
We selected a part of the wall which is much less visited and restored than some other parts. It's been said that "The Great Wall is the best of the Chinese buildings, and Simatai is the best of the Great Wall." After being there and walking along that particular section of the wall for over six miles I must say that statement couldn't be more right. The Wall itself is an amazing feat of determination and innovation but the views from the wall are 360 degrees of beauty. Some of the parts were really falling apart which allowed us the opportunity to actually climb the wall which I would have done even in the absence of necessity. The whole experience was breathtaking and irreplaceable. When we got back from the wall we headed straight to the train station and began the next segment of our adventure.
After 12 hours on a train sitting upright on what is defined by the train company as a "Hard seat for one" we were ready to get back on our feet. Xi'an is the former capital of China and home of several dynasties. After wondering around under the world's oldest city wall still standing we hopped on a bus and headed out toward the Terra-Cotta Warriors. Terra-cotta Warriors and Horses is a collection of 8,099 life-size terra cotta figures of warriors and horses located near the Mausoleum of the First Qin Emperor. Although 8,099 seems like a lot the sites are still an active 30 years after their discovery by a farmer digging a well and it is estimated that over 20,000 will eventually be uncovered. The pits were never recorded in written history and were a shocking discovery.
The warriors themselves are all unique and upon closer inspection it was amazing to see the detail of the facial hair and features. The warriors were buried with weapons and horses as well as wooden chariots. The chariots were burned and destroyed when the Qin dynasty was overthrown unfortunately. In fact, everything in pits was destroyed by the insurgents and archeologists are now reassembling the armies piece by piece. The sheer mass of the life size army is startling. After another 12 hour train ride we were back in Beijing by 9am and ready for another day of exploration.
We walked out of the train station and went to the Forbidden City. The construction of the Forbidden City started in 1406 and took 14 years and an estimated 200,000 men. Located at the exact center of the ancient city of Beijing and imperial palace during the mid-Ming and the Qing Dynasties the city covers 720,000 square meters, 800 buildings and more than 8,000 rooms. As soon as one enters under the giant picture of Mao hanging on the gate it is obvious that this is a city like no other. Actually the picture of Mao is quite ironic as the whole city is a huge symbol for bourgeois excessiveness. The city was going to be completely demolished after the success of the Liberation Army but it was thankfully saved for tourism. I won’t attempt to give a verbal tour of the city as I have finals in less than two months.
After the city and the park directly behind it, we set off to the Temple of Heaven. Built in 1420 this temple is the location the emperor would pray for excellent crops and good weather. The emperor in ancient China was considered to be the "Son of heaven." Some Chinese Christians consider the Temple of Heaven as a tribute to the Christian God, believing that the belief in Heaven to be an unarticulated reverence for the true God.
The temple is much larger and striking than I had thought and is better served by looking at the pictures on my website than by my own humble vocabulary.
We also went other places in between the aforementioned events but I need to go study Chinese and economics so I will stop here. My last final was just announced to be on December 13 so in the coming days I will study to logistics of another trip. I would like to fly to Bangkok and than proceed into Cambodia to see Anchor Wat but I will have to examine that possibility in detail and update you at a future date.
The first day we spent wondering around Beijing taking in the city and looking like American tourists--first to Tiananmen Square. I had checked out Tiananmen Square in the Lonely Planet available at our hotel but all the passages about the history surrounding Tiananmen had been purposefully covered up by stickers. Around Tiananmen there stands: Mao's Mausoleum, The Forbidden City and the Chinese National Museum. Tiananmen Square is the world's largest city center and was as impressive as it was well guarded. There are soldiers crawling all over Beijing. That night we began to talk of other places we would like to go in China and so we decided we would see something else in addition to Beijing.
After getting a feel for the city in the first day we decided to go ahead and get down the business. The bus ride out to the great wall commenced around 6:30 am Beijing time (China only has one time zone). The ride out to the wall was fairly uneventful although we were fortunate enough to observe a local during the excretion of bodily wastes on the side of the road. Beijing is a fairly polluted city in comparison with Hong Kong but around the wall the detectable pollution was much reduced.
We selected a part of the wall which is much less visited and restored than some other parts. It's been said that "The Great Wall is the best of the Chinese buildings, and Simatai is the best of the Great Wall." After being there and walking along that particular section of the wall for over six miles I must say that statement couldn't be more right. The Wall itself is an amazing feat of determination and innovation but the views from the wall are 360 degrees of beauty. Some of the parts were really falling apart which allowed us the opportunity to actually climb the wall which I would have done even in the absence of necessity. The whole experience was breathtaking and irreplaceable. When we got back from the wall we headed straight to the train station and began the next segment of our adventure.
After 12 hours on a train sitting upright on what is defined by the train company as a "Hard seat for one" we were ready to get back on our feet. Xi'an is the former capital of China and home of several dynasties. After wondering around under the world's oldest city wall still standing we hopped on a bus and headed out toward the Terra-Cotta Warriors. Terra-cotta Warriors and Horses is a collection of 8,099 life-size terra cotta figures of warriors and horses located near the Mausoleum of the First Qin Emperor. Although 8,099 seems like a lot the sites are still an active 30 years after their discovery by a farmer digging a well and it is estimated that over 20,000 will eventually be uncovered. The pits were never recorded in written history and were a shocking discovery.
The warriors themselves are all unique and upon closer inspection it was amazing to see the detail of the facial hair and features. The warriors were buried with weapons and horses as well as wooden chariots. The chariots were burned and destroyed when the Qin dynasty was overthrown unfortunately. In fact, everything in pits was destroyed by the insurgents and archeologists are now reassembling the armies piece by piece. The sheer mass of the life size army is startling. After another 12 hour train ride we were back in Beijing by 9am and ready for another day of exploration.
We walked out of the train station and went to the Forbidden City. The construction of the Forbidden City started in 1406 and took 14 years and an estimated 200,000 men. Located at the exact center of the ancient city of Beijing and imperial palace during the mid-Ming and the Qing Dynasties the city covers 720,000 square meters, 800 buildings and more than 8,000 rooms. As soon as one enters under the giant picture of Mao hanging on the gate it is obvious that this is a city like no other. Actually the picture of Mao is quite ironic as the whole city is a huge symbol for bourgeois excessiveness. The city was going to be completely demolished after the success of the Liberation Army but it was thankfully saved for tourism. I won’t attempt to give a verbal tour of the city as I have finals in less than two months.
After the city and the park directly behind it, we set off to the Temple of Heaven. Built in 1420 this temple is the location the emperor would pray for excellent crops and good weather. The emperor in ancient China was considered to be the "Son of heaven." Some Chinese Christians consider the Temple of Heaven as a tribute to the Christian God, believing that the belief in Heaven to be an unarticulated reverence for the true God.
The temple is much larger and striking than I had thought and is better served by looking at the pictures on my website than by my own humble vocabulary.
We also went other places in between the aforementioned events but I need to go study Chinese and economics so I will stop here. My last final was just announced to be on December 13 so in the coming days I will study to logistics of another trip. I would like to fly to Bangkok and than proceed into Cambodia to see Anchor Wat but I will have to examine that possibility in detail and update you at a future date.
Vietnam
We flew out on a Thursday night and got to Saigon around 9:30pm. As soon as we walked out of the terminal we were met by various people who all spoke English fairly well and wanted to give us a ride wherever we wanted to go. In Saigon there are two options: pay a little more and take a taxi or if one has the courage, as well as a complete lack of concern for personal safety, a motorbike offers a less expensive option. These motorbikes are of course very safe as helmet laws and driver certifications are in place. Actually that’s not true, I could count the number of helmets I saw while in Vietnam on my hands and the driving style is less than cautious. As I am sure you have guessed by now, we choose to take motorbikes to the hotel. The ride starts out with the revelation that traffic laws are quite discretionary and no commonly observed rules are in place. Weaving in and out of cars along with the hundreds of other motorbikes was really a good time. The horn is the only safety mechanism on any vehicle in Vietnam and it is used profusely in order to alert others of your presence. As I felt the warmth of the muffler on my leg of the motorbike less than six inches to the right in relation to the bike I was riding I realized this was the only way to get around town. When we got to the hotel I found and executed the first cockroach of the trip as it attempted to climb onto my bed.Crossing the street in Saigon is an adventure which also cannot be underestimated. The Vietnamese don’t use silly lights that tell you when to cross in front of oncoming traffic. The communist way is to share the road fairly with everyone. So once I had seen a native cross I realized I now too would need to slingshot myself into the fray of honking motorbikes and cars if I was going to leave the hotel. As long as a steady pace is kept the motorists are reasonably adept at allowing pedestrian movement. This is certainly not to say that when a car is coming from the left at around 40 mph and another tourist van is to your right, all while being swarmed around by honking motorbikes, that the experience can’t be a small bit frightening. I saw the reunification palace where the “evil” South Vietnamese and the “American Aggressors” planned out their tactics to “hurt the Vietnamese people” and attack civilians. I went to the War Remnants Museum( formerly known as the American Oppression Museum) where I saw some truly stomach turning pictures and stories along with a portion of the museum sponsored by the great Commonwealth of Kentucky which was slightly less upsetting, but certainly still very real. The atrocities of the war are much more authentic in my mind now that I have met people who lost parents and victims of land mines who were born long after the war was over.The Cu Chi tunnels were amazing. I was able to crawl through a small portion of the tunnels and I can’t imagine the fortitude necessary to live in them for months at a time. There were displays with all the traps used by the Vietnamese and information on the process of converting shrapnel and defective bombs into weapons to be used against American soldiers. At the end of the tour there was a gun range and I shot an M-16 at a standing target about 80 yards out (2 for 2). There was actually another lower level of the tunnels which I had considered attempting to crawl through but upon asking further questions it was revealed to me that bats, spiders, snakes and scorpions all lived in the tunnel which was 80 cm x 60cm. I declined the invitation politely and moved on.Disclaimer:Overall the trip to Vietnam was excellent although I wouldn’t suggest it for anyone who wasn’t looking for an adventure. Saigon is a very dirty place and safety is a real concern for visitors. There are few public restrooms in the city so people often just find a “happy tree” and relieve themselves at the side of the road. Prostitution is also a huge industry and is offered to westerners on about every street. I witnessed a woman fall off a motorbike my first night and another accident the following day. When traveling to Vietnam stay in groups and don’t take a motor bike late at night. It’s a great place but a wary attitude is a wise one.
Institutions
Family in Hong Kong reminds me a lot of family in the States. While some families are very close, others may not even speak on a regular basis. Tim, one of my local friends, was born in Hong Kong and all his family lives in the area with the exception of his father who works on the mainland and is gone with work for months at a time. Other students are close with their families, living at home during school and riding the train to CUHK everyday. The official divorce rate is Hong Kong is very high and is close to the US. I have also been told by professors and local students that men in Hong Kong often take one wife and another girlfriend. This trend is said to be decreasing but still exists.
Children are not expected to move out of the house at any particular time and often live under the same roof until marriage. This gracious attitude is also expected to be repaid when the parents become old and need a place to live. Construction of elderly homes is on the rise as Hong Kong continues to follow western culture. The elderly are given social security checks and can most often afford the cost of living in one of these institutions. This change of culture is a big debate in Hong Kong and is talked about often.
The political structure of Hong Kong is another hot topic, this one an international debate. With the handover of Hong Kong to the People's Republic of China the collective eyes of the international community watch carefully. Hong Kong people love their freedom but are not citizens of a liberal democracy. Before the handover the British leaders helped Hong Kong to draft the Hong Kong Bill of Rights which was modeled closely after the US. Citizens and visitors are granted freedom of speech, right of peaceful assembly and a vote is some legislative elections. None of these rights exist is Mainland China and the process of implementation of democracy is a slow process which is not assured. People are very passionate here in Hong Kong about democracy. There are two sides to the debate: one side claims that voting and democracy are a universal right and should be granted while the other point of view closely resembles the saying "If it's not broke, don't fix it." Many people are perfectly happy to live in a society without full voting rights as long as the economy is booming and the GDP is growing. The debate will rage on until the fifty years of "One country, two systems" is over and one government is sovereign over Mainland as well as Hong Kong.
Christianity is a growing force is Hong Kong as well as the rest of China. As a former British colony, Hong Kong has many institutions bases on Christian values such as hospitals and schools with names dedicated to these values. On campus many fliers advertising Christian events and meetings are posted. Hong Kong allows freedom of religion and there is quite a mix. Many students are active Christians, wearing Christian t-shirts and attending services. I have also been invited to attend a Taoist service but have not yet attended. I have read a fair amount of Taoist philosophy so I am familiar with the general beliefs and I would find such a service quite interesting. I have not witnessed any heated religious debates and don't expect to see any during my time in Hong Kong.
Many excellent schools are located within Hong Kong and it is required that children attend the elementary and high school levels. About half of those who graduate high school go on to university. Hong Kong University and Chinese University of Hong Kong are both assessed to be in the top 50 worldwide in most rankings so the availability of excellent education is close. Some areas of Hong Kong are known for their excellent primary schools and because of this many wealthy individuals move into these areas for the benefit of their children. There are many highly educated people living in Hong Kong and the percentage doesn't look to be declining as more universities are gaining international recognition.
Considering the institutions I have observed I think that the overwhelming message is "Westernization in progress." The rights of those in Hong Kong far exceeds the rights of those on Mainland, the educational system is modeled after the British method and freedom of religion is practiced daily. Hong Kong people are in the process of dealing with remaining issues such as huge income inequality and reunification with Mainland. Hong Kong is working hard to become a liberal democracy founded in the western tradition while maintaining their Chinese heritage. This will be a difficult task on many fronts, but I believe they have made solid progress thus far.
Children are not expected to move out of the house at any particular time and often live under the same roof until marriage. This gracious attitude is also expected to be repaid when the parents become old and need a place to live. Construction of elderly homes is on the rise as Hong Kong continues to follow western culture. The elderly are given social security checks and can most often afford the cost of living in one of these institutions. This change of culture is a big debate in Hong Kong and is talked about often.
The political structure of Hong Kong is another hot topic, this one an international debate. With the handover of Hong Kong to the People's Republic of China the collective eyes of the international community watch carefully. Hong Kong people love their freedom but are not citizens of a liberal democracy. Before the handover the British leaders helped Hong Kong to draft the Hong Kong Bill of Rights which was modeled closely after the US. Citizens and visitors are granted freedom of speech, right of peaceful assembly and a vote is some legislative elections. None of these rights exist is Mainland China and the process of implementation of democracy is a slow process which is not assured. People are very passionate here in Hong Kong about democracy. There are two sides to the debate: one side claims that voting and democracy are a universal right and should be granted while the other point of view closely resembles the saying "If it's not broke, don't fix it." Many people are perfectly happy to live in a society without full voting rights as long as the economy is booming and the GDP is growing. The debate will rage on until the fifty years of "One country, two systems" is over and one government is sovereign over Mainland as well as Hong Kong.
Christianity is a growing force is Hong Kong as well as the rest of China. As a former British colony, Hong Kong has many institutions bases on Christian values such as hospitals and schools with names dedicated to these values. On campus many fliers advertising Christian events and meetings are posted. Hong Kong allows freedom of religion and there is quite a mix. Many students are active Christians, wearing Christian t-shirts and attending services. I have also been invited to attend a Taoist service but have not yet attended. I have read a fair amount of Taoist philosophy so I am familiar with the general beliefs and I would find such a service quite interesting. I have not witnessed any heated religious debates and don't expect to see any during my time in Hong Kong.
Many excellent schools are located within Hong Kong and it is required that children attend the elementary and high school levels. About half of those who graduate high school go on to university. Hong Kong University and Chinese University of Hong Kong are both assessed to be in the top 50 worldwide in most rankings so the availability of excellent education is close. Some areas of Hong Kong are known for their excellent primary schools and because of this many wealthy individuals move into these areas for the benefit of their children. There are many highly educated people living in Hong Kong and the percentage doesn't look to be declining as more universities are gaining international recognition.
Considering the institutions I have observed I think that the overwhelming message is "Westernization in progress." The rights of those in Hong Kong far exceeds the rights of those on Mainland, the educational system is modeled after the British method and freedom of religion is practiced daily. Hong Kong people are in the process of dealing with remaining issues such as huge income inequality and reunification with Mainland. Hong Kong is working hard to become a liberal democracy founded in the western tradition while maintaining their Chinese heritage. This will be a difficult task on many fronts, but I believe they have made solid progress thus far.
Outsider
I am Hong Kong people. I ride and push people on the same trains and subways, eat the same food, take classes pertaining to China and it's many markets, wear my CUHK t-shirts and date local girls. I have liked Hong Kong from the moment I saw it from the airplane window and have tried my best to absorb the culture. The local students are happy to share my company help me with Chinese or answer questions about how Hong Kong or the Mainland.
Upon my arrival at the Hong Kong International Airport I was greeted by a group of CUHK students who knew my name and on which flight I was coming. I was helped with transportation to campus and all the while was greeted by numerous locals and exchange students alike. Hong Kong people are not at all surprised to see westerners. As a former British colony the locals are all very used to interaction with western people groups and their culture. Hong Kong people love to hang out and are always wanting to share food and ceremonies.
Before getting of the bus from the airport to campus I had already joined the international club and agreed to come to a "Hot pot" dinner with many of the locals. This is the first time that I have been in the minority for anytime over a few hours in my entire life and I really have been enjoying the whole experience. I have been invited to do a lot of fun stuff as well as study and make presentations with locals. We have inside jokes, go surfing, share 3 AM noodles and discuss matters about which good friends often converse.
The one barrier, however small, would be language. English is one of the official languages of Hong Kong and students are fluent, however the first language of the locals is Cantonese. Students are always willing to speak in English for a western onlooker or friend, but this does seem to increase the time needed to really interact on a deeper level with the locals. This barrier is not a huge issue but it does exist and takes a little extra effort to overcome. I practice my Chinese with the locals as much as possible and I am improving. I actually had an entire phone conversation today in Chinese which involved me giving instructions on when and where to meet for a group project. I am happy that I have been so widely accepted here. During my time Hong Kong is my home and I will treat it as such.
Upon my arrival at the Hong Kong International Airport I was greeted by a group of CUHK students who knew my name and on which flight I was coming. I was helped with transportation to campus and all the while was greeted by numerous locals and exchange students alike. Hong Kong people are not at all surprised to see westerners. As a former British colony the locals are all very used to interaction with western people groups and their culture. Hong Kong people love to hang out and are always wanting to share food and ceremonies.
Before getting of the bus from the airport to campus I had already joined the international club and agreed to come to a "Hot pot" dinner with many of the locals. This is the first time that I have been in the minority for anytime over a few hours in my entire life and I really have been enjoying the whole experience. I have been invited to do a lot of fun stuff as well as study and make presentations with locals. We have inside jokes, go surfing, share 3 AM noodles and discuss matters about which good friends often converse.
The one barrier, however small, would be language. English is one of the official languages of Hong Kong and students are fluent, however the first language of the locals is Cantonese. Students are always willing to speak in English for a western onlooker or friend, but this does seem to increase the time needed to really interact on a deeper level with the locals. This barrier is not a huge issue but it does exist and takes a little extra effort to overcome. I practice my Chinese with the locals as much as possible and I am improving. I actually had an entire phone conversation today in Chinese which involved me giving instructions on when and where to meet for a group project. I am happy that I have been so widely accepted here. During my time Hong Kong is my home and I will treat it as such.
Systems
I chose to observe East Tsim Sha Tsui which is in central Hong Kong and is relentlessly active. Sitting on the steps in front of Jackie Chan’s gym I am surrounded by flashing lights and towering buildings with banners or yelling salespeople vying for my consumer attention. Tsim Sha Tsui (TST) is unlike most of Hong Kong in some ways while maintaining a solid grasp of the overarching facts of the special administrative region. The minorities suddenly become the majority upon entrance into the area. Those of Indian and African dissent are pictured foremost before me, full of activity.
Although to the untrained and impatient eye it may seem that these standing men are simply standing, but I find they are far from slough like. At the very sight of a tourist the whole group descends on the poor soul while combating one another in an attempt to attract the wonderer to dine in one of the many Indian restaurants in TST. The men all gather around pushing “VIP Cards” and offering a five to ten percent discount in exchange for patronage. Eventually one man claims victory and escorts his prize to a meeting with another associate who ushers the hungry body upstairs to the restaurant. This second guide is employed in order to allow the star of the show to return to the street quickly and lasso more business. The entire group, despite the assumed laziness, is in reality a motivated cluster of entrepreneurs.
There are actually two businesses which take place in the exact same place, the restaurants are a first priority and the hawkers are much more vocal in promoting the eatery service but another is still available. Although a close eye is needed, one can certainly find transactions which would not be looked upon fondly by an honest policeman. At the risk of being assumed a stoner myself I will only mention what I observed. Hashish is a major element of commerce in TST and is offered to assumedly wealthy westerners. This system is also quite developed as the bargaining takes place is hushed tones and than the buyer is taken off site to an undisclosed location or told to wait in front of the stairs until the cannabis in question can be retrieved. I cannot fully gather how it is known that these restaurateurs often double as drug dealers although logic would seem to lead to word of mouth. However the marketing is accomplished the transactions are frequent with a system in place for fulfilling the needs of those wishing to obtain such unnecessary substances.
An exceedingly necessary and convenient entity which is also available in TST is the train system. The two train systems which operate in cooperation known as the MTR and the KCR are readily accessible from TST. Much of the success of the MTR and KCR is due to the simultaneous sensation of the octopus card. One can simply add money to the card and then proceed to swipe the card at the entrance of the station in order to buy a ticket. The octopus card is used by 95% of people using public transportation in Hong Kong. Smart cards have been attempted in other markets and failed, not in Hong Kong. Both the trains and smart card are reliant upon each other to function at peak levels. While process of buying train tickets would slow down those hoping to ride the train, the octopus card is now widely accepted by vending machines and convenience stores. This popularity would likely not be enjoyed today without the necessity of owning the card for efficient train use. Public transportation is extensively used in the city and is simply a way of life in Hong Kong. People are often in a hurry as business is such a large part of the culture which means that the trains, as well as the octopus card, must be quick.
As my first time spent observing TST was at night so I decided to make my second examination during daylight areas. The general feel of the locale was familiar and few differences were in place. The avid Indian salesmen were still at work and attempting to lure in those in need to nourishment. The trains were busier but not unrecognizable by any means. Altogether very little changed from one time to another and all the same systems were in place.
While the trains may facilitate, the rush of the business world certainly motivates the busy streets. Tourists also often come to the area to eat and shop. I suppose the Hong Kong economy would be the largest stimulus to the general commotion of the streets with tourism a distant second.
Although to the untrained and impatient eye it may seem that these standing men are simply standing, but I find they are far from slough like. At the very sight of a tourist the whole group descends on the poor soul while combating one another in an attempt to attract the wonderer to dine in one of the many Indian restaurants in TST. The men all gather around pushing “VIP Cards” and offering a five to ten percent discount in exchange for patronage. Eventually one man claims victory and escorts his prize to a meeting with another associate who ushers the hungry body upstairs to the restaurant. This second guide is employed in order to allow the star of the show to return to the street quickly and lasso more business. The entire group, despite the assumed laziness, is in reality a motivated cluster of entrepreneurs.
There are actually two businesses which take place in the exact same place, the restaurants are a first priority and the hawkers are much more vocal in promoting the eatery service but another is still available. Although a close eye is needed, one can certainly find transactions which would not be looked upon fondly by an honest policeman. At the risk of being assumed a stoner myself I will only mention what I observed. Hashish is a major element of commerce in TST and is offered to assumedly wealthy westerners. This system is also quite developed as the bargaining takes place is hushed tones and than the buyer is taken off site to an undisclosed location or told to wait in front of the stairs until the cannabis in question can be retrieved. I cannot fully gather how it is known that these restaurateurs often double as drug dealers although logic would seem to lead to word of mouth. However the marketing is accomplished the transactions are frequent with a system in place for fulfilling the needs of those wishing to obtain such unnecessary substances.
An exceedingly necessary and convenient entity which is also available in TST is the train system. The two train systems which operate in cooperation known as the MTR and the KCR are readily accessible from TST. Much of the success of the MTR and KCR is due to the simultaneous sensation of the octopus card. One can simply add money to the card and then proceed to swipe the card at the entrance of the station in order to buy a ticket. The octopus card is used by 95% of people using public transportation in Hong Kong. Smart cards have been attempted in other markets and failed, not in Hong Kong. Both the trains and smart card are reliant upon each other to function at peak levels. While process of buying train tickets would slow down those hoping to ride the train, the octopus card is now widely accepted by vending machines and convenience stores. This popularity would likely not be enjoyed today without the necessity of owning the card for efficient train use. Public transportation is extensively used in the city and is simply a way of life in Hong Kong. People are often in a hurry as business is such a large part of the culture which means that the trains, as well as the octopus card, must be quick.
As my first time spent observing TST was at night so I decided to make my second examination during daylight areas. The general feel of the locale was familiar and few differences were in place. The avid Indian salesmen were still at work and attempting to lure in those in need to nourishment. The trains were busier but not unrecognizable by any means. Altogether very little changed from one time to another and all the same systems were in place.
While the trains may facilitate, the rush of the business world certainly motivates the busy streets. Tourists also often come to the area to eat and shop. I suppose the Hong Kong economy would be the largest stimulus to the general commotion of the streets with tourism a distant second.
Play
Before coming to Hong Kong I was already excited about the prospect of playing table-tennis with a high level of competition. I have not been disappointed and have won and been beaten in many games in the last couple months. Ping pong is actually considered a sport on campus and the university team is very good. The competitors are quite competitive and the games get quite intense. Ping pong encourages strong individual play and is not often played with a partner. Knowing your opponent and his/her strengths and weaknesses is a huge advantage. Although ping pong is a highly visible game played by most students it is not by any means the only game in Hong Kong.
Basketball, soccer, tennis, badminton and squash are all very active sports. Basketball is incredibly popular and the gyms are almost always bustling with aspiring players. With the international popularity of the NBA at an all-time high, the Chinese know of many players and coaches. The basketball games are competitive without doubt, but it seems they do lack some of the fire of basketball games in the states. Trash talk also seems to be a non-existent segment of sports on the surface but under the surface the players are constantly talking to one another and attempting to distract them from the game although it is more discrete than the states. Basketball is a powerful tool to encourage teamwork and strategy. The rules are reliant upon physical restraint on defense and thorough analysis on offense. The game relies on two factions of multiple people working toward and goal and whichever group operates better as a team is the winner.
Other sports are often fairly common and the Hong Kong people as a whole seem fairly active. Soccer (football) is growing in popularity and the locals all follow the European leagues. Prior to my time here in HK I thought of Badminton as a backyard game played by English aristocrats, I was wrong and the better players are very impressive. Every Saturday our warden plays tennis with students and the mood is more relaxed. Handball is less popular and I am still learning the rules as I have only seen a few games during gym class. All these games are team oriented and require joint effort to achieve and common goal.
Although some of the sports listed above lack some of the fire of competitive sports in the US, winning is certainly valued and acknowledged. Trophies are given to the winning college team after the inner-campus tournament and many players don’t make the team due to lack of skill. While playing ping pong hearing a scream or shout is a common occurrence. Hong Kong people do not avoid competition and like to win.
Older people also often frequent the tennis court as well as table tennis halls. The most interesting game played by the older generations is Mahjong. Mahjong is played all over China and Hong Kong is no exception. Middle-aged men and senior citizens alike camp out on the sidewalk for hours and fill halls in order to play Mahjong. Although I am not confident on all the strategy I know enough to observe and maintain interest. Mahjong, from what I have seen in Hong Kong and Beijing, is played exclusively for money. The men playing are extremely intense and the game play is far from lighthearted. Mahjong enforces the idea of patience, planning and virtue. Three of the blocks actually represent benevolence, sincerity, and filial piety.
Sports without passion are only half of what they should be. Working out and running are tools of fitness, sports are the struggle of humans played out in the flesh. Placing kids on sports team encourages many positive aspects of human interaction. Social competence, sharing, collaboration and learning how to lose are all useful experiences for life. On a macro level however sports stars are elevated onto a plane which is likely not healthy for society. While most teens couldn’t recall the names of the Majority Whip or name all the representatives of their state in congress they could rattle off such names as Kobe Bryant, Terrell Owens and Derek Jeter. On a personal basis I think the intensity and teamwork instilled by sports is a valuable asset.
Basketball, soccer, tennis, badminton and squash are all very active sports. Basketball is incredibly popular and the gyms are almost always bustling with aspiring players. With the international popularity of the NBA at an all-time high, the Chinese know of many players and coaches. The basketball games are competitive without doubt, but it seems they do lack some of the fire of basketball games in the states. Trash talk also seems to be a non-existent segment of sports on the surface but under the surface the players are constantly talking to one another and attempting to distract them from the game although it is more discrete than the states. Basketball is a powerful tool to encourage teamwork and strategy. The rules are reliant upon physical restraint on defense and thorough analysis on offense. The game relies on two factions of multiple people working toward and goal and whichever group operates better as a team is the winner.
Other sports are often fairly common and the Hong Kong people as a whole seem fairly active. Soccer (football) is growing in popularity and the locals all follow the European leagues. Prior to my time here in HK I thought of Badminton as a backyard game played by English aristocrats, I was wrong and the better players are very impressive. Every Saturday our warden plays tennis with students and the mood is more relaxed. Handball is less popular and I am still learning the rules as I have only seen a few games during gym class. All these games are team oriented and require joint effort to achieve and common goal.
Although some of the sports listed above lack some of the fire of competitive sports in the US, winning is certainly valued and acknowledged. Trophies are given to the winning college team after the inner-campus tournament and many players don’t make the team due to lack of skill. While playing ping pong hearing a scream or shout is a common occurrence. Hong Kong people do not avoid competition and like to win.
Older people also often frequent the tennis court as well as table tennis halls. The most interesting game played by the older generations is Mahjong. Mahjong is played all over China and Hong Kong is no exception. Middle-aged men and senior citizens alike camp out on the sidewalk for hours and fill halls in order to play Mahjong. Although I am not confident on all the strategy I know enough to observe and maintain interest. Mahjong, from what I have seen in Hong Kong and Beijing, is played exclusively for money. The men playing are extremely intense and the game play is far from lighthearted. Mahjong enforces the idea of patience, planning and virtue. Three of the blocks actually represent benevolence, sincerity, and filial piety.
Sports without passion are only half of what they should be. Working out and running are tools of fitness, sports are the struggle of humans played out in the flesh. Placing kids on sports team encourages many positive aspects of human interaction. Social competence, sharing, collaboration and learning how to lose are all useful experiences for life. On a macro level however sports stars are elevated onto a plane which is likely not healthy for society. While most teens couldn’t recall the names of the Majority Whip or name all the representatives of their state in congress they could rattle off such names as Kobe Bryant, Terrell Owens and Derek Jeter. On a personal basis I think the intensity and teamwork instilled by sports is a valuable asset.
Time
While in classes here at CUHK I have noticed that local students seem to care very little about time. It is not uncommon for a student to walk in thirty or forty minutes late for a class lecture. While I find this ridiculous the students do not seem to be concerned by this infraction and stroll right in to their seat. While students may be late to classes in the states on occasion the professor will likely want an explanation or make it clear that he/she would prefer that the student miss the class as opposed to coming for the last fifteen minutes and disrupting class. Students at CUHK also sleep very little at night and are often seen sleeping in class. I consider this poor time management and is at epidemic levels on campus. Most students dont even eat dinner until around 9 PM and after that they do homework and hang out with friends until 2 AM or later. In my Economy of China class today five locals were passed out in their chairs without any idea what material was being covered. Students are also often late to groups meetings and other informal gatherings. When I was the MC for the international house orientation night we had to start thirty minutes late as it was explained that the students would all wonder in about that time.
I am not convinced that all of Hong Kong holds these same views. As Hong Kong is the financial center of Asia and a huge world player I cannot imagine that the employees of these firms hold similar views. Also in support of these assumption, I have no experience with professors or speakers being late for events or classes. It seems that once some responsibility is placed upon the individual the time tables shift.
There is an old Chinese saying that “One should not attempt to eat a large plate of rice in just one sitting, you will become full before it is finished.” This saying is representative of the ideal in time management. Do not attempt to accomplish large tasks in whole in a short period of time. Tasks should be completed in a manner which allows the proper time for quality intake. I can see this thought in the study habits of many of my classmates. Although they very well may sleep very little, the study time put forth is adequate to accomplish to goal of proper intake.
I am not convinced that all of Hong Kong holds these same views. As Hong Kong is the financial center of Asia and a huge world player I cannot imagine that the employees of these firms hold similar views. Also in support of these assumption, I have no experience with professors or speakers being late for events or classes. It seems that once some responsibility is placed upon the individual the time tables shift.
There is an old Chinese saying that “One should not attempt to eat a large plate of rice in just one sitting, you will become full before it is finished.” This saying is representative of the ideal in time management. Do not attempt to accomplish large tasks in whole in a short period of time. Tasks should be completed in a manner which allows the proper time for quality intake. I can see this thought in the study habits of many of my classmates. Although they very well may sleep very little, the study time put forth is adequate to accomplish to goal of proper intake.
Cultural Bump
As an American I am proud to be a part of the nation in which I live. My pro-American sentiment is hardly appreciated on campus. Some other Americans also studying as exchange students here in Hong Kong are only too happy to fall to the temptation to stand down from American beliefs. I am not one of these yielding students and I will not pretend for even a moment that I am not glad to be a US citizen.
The attacks come from all areas of political discussion. "The US kills for oil" seems to be a popular argument although to call it that would require the assault to have depth beyond the typical anti-Bush rant which usually follows. Most comments made seem to be fairly standard that the US-Israel war machine is out of control. The US receives very little support from the American students and next to none from the Europeans. I truly understand the distaste they have for American politics as the US often disagrees with the majority of Europe on many international law issues.
Being open to discussion as an American is hardly optional. In general conversation others will often make snide remarks implying American failures with an emphasis on Bush as a war criminal. I simply cannot let these comments be voiced without some intelligent discussion of the facts. I have found a great opportunity to make an American voice heard among many who hear only the negative reviews of American policy. Though the locals are far less vocal than those from Europe there is certainly no doubt that "America" is a dirty word in international politics. As Hong Kong people develop more into Chinese political thought and less western thought is influential, these anti-US feelings will only become stronger.
For the most part people separate politics and personal relationships very well. I am not hated because of my nationality. No matter where people are from they accept me as an intelligent and fun person with a positive outlook on life. Only in matters of politics are manners and educate excused from the room. In these cases I have, at times, become more passionate than I would have liked in debate. I attempt to contain my emotions and these encounters almost always end just the way they began. With such radically different viewpoints on issues of nationalism, sovereignty and what constitutes a terrorist group or act it is exceedingly difficult, but not impossible, t to make many advances.
This issue has easily been my biggest cultural bump. This is my first experience defending America to Europeans and Chinese, many of whom have never even been there. As I daily reverse misconceptions about American life I am somewhat encouraged when people are responsive after being given a genuine answer. I make clear what I believe and make no attempts of masking my patriotism. I listen and try adamantly to understand the politics of people who I may never encounter again. This is truly a rare opportunity for personal growth in beliefs for me as well as a chance to educate others from around the world.
The attacks come from all areas of political discussion. "The US kills for oil" seems to be a popular argument although to call it that would require the assault to have depth beyond the typical anti-Bush rant which usually follows. Most comments made seem to be fairly standard that the US-Israel war machine is out of control. The US receives very little support from the American students and next to none from the Europeans. I truly understand the distaste they have for American politics as the US often disagrees with the majority of Europe on many international law issues.
Being open to discussion as an American is hardly optional. In general conversation others will often make snide remarks implying American failures with an emphasis on Bush as a war criminal. I simply cannot let these comments be voiced without some intelligent discussion of the facts. I have found a great opportunity to make an American voice heard among many who hear only the negative reviews of American policy. Though the locals are far less vocal than those from Europe there is certainly no doubt that "America" is a dirty word in international politics. As Hong Kong people develop more into Chinese political thought and less western thought is influential, these anti-US feelings will only become stronger.
For the most part people separate politics and personal relationships very well. I am not hated because of my nationality. No matter where people are from they accept me as an intelligent and fun person with a positive outlook on life. Only in matters of politics are manners and educate excused from the room. In these cases I have, at times, become more passionate than I would have liked in debate. I attempt to contain my emotions and these encounters almost always end just the way they began. With such radically different viewpoints on issues of nationalism, sovereignty and what constitutes a terrorist group or act it is exceedingly difficult, but not impossible, t to make many advances.
This issue has easily been my biggest cultural bump. This is my first experience defending America to Europeans and Chinese, many of whom have never even been there. As I daily reverse misconceptions about American life I am somewhat encouraged when people are responsive after being given a genuine answer. I make clear what I believe and make no attempts of masking my patriotism. I listen and try adamantly to understand the politics of people who I may never encounter again. This is truly a rare opportunity for personal growth in beliefs for me as well as a chance to educate others from around the world.
"The Kindness of Strangers"
Positive:
Arrival at the airport
First day of class
Lan Kwai Fong ex-pats
International friends
Directions from locals
New Foods
Shared umbrella
Negative:
Cut off in line at the KCR
Smell of Nathan Road
First time in the minority racially
Hatred of President Bush
Missing bus and class
"The Kindness of Strangers"
Upon arriving in Hong Kong I knew very little of the the geography. Because of my lack of knowledge as to transportation and other personal needs I have come to rely heavily on the kindness of the locals around me. It was the first day of class as I headed out of the I-House towards the other side of campus. It was raining a bit and I hadn't an umbrella with me at the time. As I started to take my first step into the downpour I heard a voice coming from just inside the building which said: "Hello! Hello!" I turned to see who was trying to gain my attention and saw a rather slender Chinese student with an umbrella. This same young man proceeded to share his umbrella with me all the way to my bus stop. Upon arriving on my intended section of campus I stepped off the bus and as my new found friend had gotten off at an earlier stop I assumed that this time I would be drenched on the way to class.
"Hello!" Before I can even reply this time another young man pulls out an extra umbrella he has with him and lets me use it on the way to class. This trip was not isolated and indeed not even rare. I became a habitual umbrella mooch. This trend was not difficult because anytime a storm came about it seemed that another friendly local was there to save my day. These random acts of kindness received no payment with the exception of the gratitude of a poorly prepared exchange student and yet no one seemed to mind.
Without having to reflect of these series of experiences I realized that a map in Hong Kong is also a pointless item to carry as anyone I have encountered who could speak English has been more than happy to help. On the way to the beach I ask for directions to the next bus and the man told me the number of the bus, how many stops until I reached the transition point and even the advice to take the double decker bus as they provided a more scenic view. Walking roadmaps, guides and umbrellas abound here.
I have come to expect this sort of help. Not that I take for granted the services of those around me but that I am daily grateful for their help in this foreign place. These people serve as national ambassadors in ways which the ministers of Hong Kong and Mainland China can never accomplish. With these friends in mind I have allowed myself to be much more open with new people I meet here. I look to interact on an hourly basis with new people and permit them to again share both knowledge and kindness with one who is either lost or confused. Because of those very early on who made my arrival and stay easier I have come to open myself to much more culture and conversation than I could have hoped for before my arrival.
Arrival at the airport
First day of class
Lan Kwai Fong ex-pats
International friends
Directions from locals
New Foods
Shared umbrella
Negative:
Cut off in line at the KCR
Smell of Nathan Road
First time in the minority racially
Hatred of President Bush
Missing bus and class
"The Kindness of Strangers"
Upon arriving in Hong Kong I knew very little of the the geography. Because of my lack of knowledge as to transportation and other personal needs I have come to rely heavily on the kindness of the locals around me. It was the first day of class as I headed out of the I-House towards the other side of campus. It was raining a bit and I hadn't an umbrella with me at the time. As I started to take my first step into the downpour I heard a voice coming from just inside the building which said: "Hello! Hello!" I turned to see who was trying to gain my attention and saw a rather slender Chinese student with an umbrella. This same young man proceeded to share his umbrella with me all the way to my bus stop. Upon arriving on my intended section of campus I stepped off the bus and as my new found friend had gotten off at an earlier stop I assumed that this time I would be drenched on the way to class.
"Hello!" Before I can even reply this time another young man pulls out an extra umbrella he has with him and lets me use it on the way to class. This trip was not isolated and indeed not even rare. I became a habitual umbrella mooch. This trend was not difficult because anytime a storm came about it seemed that another friendly local was there to save my day. These random acts of kindness received no payment with the exception of the gratitude of a poorly prepared exchange student and yet no one seemed to mind.
Without having to reflect of these series of experiences I realized that a map in Hong Kong is also a pointless item to carry as anyone I have encountered who could speak English has been more than happy to help. On the way to the beach I ask for directions to the next bus and the man told me the number of the bus, how many stops until I reached the transition point and even the advice to take the double decker bus as they provided a more scenic view. Walking roadmaps, guides and umbrellas abound here.
I have come to expect this sort of help. Not that I take for granted the services of those around me but that I am daily grateful for their help in this foreign place. These people serve as national ambassadors in ways which the ministers of Hong Kong and Mainland China can never accomplish. With these friends in mind I have allowed myself to be much more open with new people I meet here. I look to interact on an hourly basis with new people and permit them to again share both knowledge and kindness with one who is either lost or confused. Because of those very early on who made my arrival and stay easier I have come to open myself to much more culture and conversation than I could have hoped for before my arrival.
Hong Kong Culture Shock
"What is that smell? No, I really want to know what could smell that poorly and still be allowed in public." This is my thought process as I walk down a sidewalk in Mong Kok. Mong Kok is home of some of the best shopping and worst smells in Hong Kong. At the moment I'm not interested in dried chicken feet or the raw Sting Rays which are producing the stench, I have come for one purpose: The Ladies Market. The Ladies Market stretches over more city blocks than I care to count, yet each stand holds new things to see and more vendors to haggle with over prices.
It's about 7pm in the evening and the entire city is really starting to speed up. The market doesn't reach it's full potential until the sun has seceded which means I'm right on time. The prices seem reasonable at first glance, but I have read enough about Hong Kong to know that in places like this the sticker price means no more than the "Rolex" brand stamped on the watches. "Hello sir, you like a watch? Have a look." Fully expecting this man before me, all of 5' 3", to open up his stand to reveal a multitude of fakes I was surprised to be handed a magazine and told to follow his petite assistant to see the timepieces themselves. Now I'm on a guided tour through allies and back streets while I have no clue where I'm going.
After treking up two flights of stairs we finally enter an overflowing apartment entryway full of purses, handbags, watches and various other supposed designer items. To my right there is a entire table of watches which, if genuine, would all be the the $2000US and up range. I survey the table and find my targets. "How much for these" I ask. "Very good price, only $1280." In fact this is not a good price and I have no intension of paying anything near it. Fifteen minutes later I'm out the door for under 70% the quoted price.
Back out on the strip now and I'm in the spirit of the location. I'm now stopping to haggle over things I don't even want, its a game. After purchasing a few beeds and necklaces for acquaintances and distant relatives back home and I'm feeling like a local. It's now 8pm and personal space is a distant memory. Although this can seem aggressive and hostile at first, after a little on-the-job training I'm fitting into the bustle of people quite well now. In the states a push in the back is a sign of violence, here its simply a busy sidewalk. With sometimes literally no empty space around this is prime real estate for pick pockets and I clutch my belongings closely.
After I've haggled a ridiculous hat from $70HK to $20HK I decide to have a local meal. Actually I order a snack by mistake and it turns out to be a couple of pieces of pork on a stick. Rejuvenated I go back out into the market once more in search of a local futbol jersey. All the walking has really taken its toll and I think I feel a blister in the early stages of development. This is a sign for me to head home before I end up with more silk jackets than I can carry.
I take the train home and then hop a bus to my room in the International house and find my roommate Erik already there. Erik had previously been to Mong Kok and experienced the madness first hand. Erik finds to noise of the Hong Kong streets to be quite different than his home in Sweden. I can also see his point and find the atmosphere of the ladies market to be reminiscent of a Las Vegas casino, with no windows or any indication of an outside world. We both enjoyed our time there and make plans to go back the next time we are in dire need of some real Hong Kong culture.
As we are both Westerners, Erik and I shared an initial common discomfort with the lack of personal space. This discomfort eventually became adaptation and new found confidence in a foreign land. I am glad to be in Hong Kong. The people are fast paced but still find time to give directions and guidance to puzzled Americans like myself.
It's about 7pm in the evening and the entire city is really starting to speed up. The market doesn't reach it's full potential until the sun has seceded which means I'm right on time. The prices seem reasonable at first glance, but I have read enough about Hong Kong to know that in places like this the sticker price means no more than the "Rolex" brand stamped on the watches. "Hello sir, you like a watch? Have a look." Fully expecting this man before me, all of 5' 3", to open up his stand to reveal a multitude of fakes I was surprised to be handed a magazine and told to follow his petite assistant to see the timepieces themselves. Now I'm on a guided tour through allies and back streets while I have no clue where I'm going.
After treking up two flights of stairs we finally enter an overflowing apartment entryway full of purses, handbags, watches and various other supposed designer items. To my right there is a entire table of watches which, if genuine, would all be the the $2000US and up range. I survey the table and find my targets. "How much for these" I ask. "Very good price, only $1280." In fact this is not a good price and I have no intension of paying anything near it. Fifteen minutes later I'm out the door for under 70% the quoted price.
Back out on the strip now and I'm in the spirit of the location. I'm now stopping to haggle over things I don't even want, its a game. After purchasing a few beeds and necklaces for acquaintances and distant relatives back home and I'm feeling like a local. It's now 8pm and personal space is a distant memory. Although this can seem aggressive and hostile at first, after a little on-the-job training I'm fitting into the bustle of people quite well now. In the states a push in the back is a sign of violence, here its simply a busy sidewalk. With sometimes literally no empty space around this is prime real estate for pick pockets and I clutch my belongings closely.
After I've haggled a ridiculous hat from $70HK to $20HK I decide to have a local meal. Actually I order a snack by mistake and it turns out to be a couple of pieces of pork on a stick. Rejuvenated I go back out into the market once more in search of a local futbol jersey. All the walking has really taken its toll and I think I feel a blister in the early stages of development. This is a sign for me to head home before I end up with more silk jackets than I can carry.
I take the train home and then hop a bus to my room in the International house and find my roommate Erik already there. Erik had previously been to Mong Kok and experienced the madness first hand. Erik finds to noise of the Hong Kong streets to be quite different than his home in Sweden. I can also see his point and find the atmosphere of the ladies market to be reminiscent of a Las Vegas casino, with no windows or any indication of an outside world. We both enjoyed our time there and make plans to go back the next time we are in dire need of some real Hong Kong culture.
As we are both Westerners, Erik and I shared an initial common discomfort with the lack of personal space. This discomfort eventually became adaptation and new found confidence in a foreign land. I am glad to be in Hong Kong. The people are fast paced but still find time to give directions and guidance to puzzled Americans like myself.
